A.I. Artisanal Intelligence – Creative Crime
by Maria Rossi
photography Andrea Buccella
12 August 2015
This edition of Artisanal Intelligence—curated by Clara Tosi Pamphili and Alessio de’ Navasques—takes its cue from a clever association that becomes an underlying reference for the entire exhibition. That fil rouge ties in crime and creativity in their similar irreverent attitude towards rules and standardized behavior; artists and creatives challenge assumptions and stereotypes, at times with the collateral effect of pushing taste forward.
Tracing a retrospective path into their own past and history, 100 artists who were part of the past 10 editions of A.I. are featured in this season’s installment aptly named Creative Crime. The elective affinities that naturally develop between the different designers’ output create a composite story out of all their individual voices, all tending towards breaking the laws and pushing forward classic craftsmanship. True to its namesake, the curation opted for a space that resembles the archives of a police station desk with actual files and mug shots of the selected participants whose work is showcased once again in this five-year anniversary.
The dialogue between the voices of the different designers is a familiar feature of all A.I. editions. In this instance, the registry files about the featured designers adorn the walls, while an ethereal dress by Ludovica Amati and an Elise Perrotta knitted gown in the foreground mingle with a coat by Guen and sculptural millinery pieces, bags, shoes and other accessories.
Up on the wall the pictures display a few pieces from the designers of the past editions of A.I. while the prim bicolor geometry of the clutches by Michele Chiocciolini clashes perfectly with the vintage nature-inspired prints of the shirt by Nuagy.
A close-up on some of the shirts from the Nuagy collection by Silvia Bergomi reveals a trajectory towards ageless and timeless boho pieces that can be worn like uniforms on every occasion, across seasons and trends.
The intricate prints of designer and illustrator Pierre-Louis Mascia’s dresses are born as flat patterns that he creates out of an intuitive selection of sources ranging from vintage books to fabrics etc. When worn, they are given a new life, gaining volume and vivid optical effects.
From the newly introduced collaboration with Venetian fashion school IUAV, A.I. features two creations from Anita Elisa Pierobon e Xhefri Londo, who unified their common sensibility to present their vision of simple pieces that feel very personal and lived-in.
Romance and magic, theatre and structure all come together in the millinery pieces by Ilariuss. Passionate about the history of headgear, Ilaria Soncini infuses all of her unusual sharp geometric creations with a whimsical touch from the past.
The powdery tones and ethereal fabrics of the two dresses by Francesca Piacentini on the right—the painterly qualities of which stem from an interest of the designer in Degas’ paintings—are a fine counterpoint to the more solid structures of the dress by Londo and Pierobon and hats by Ilariuss.
This helmet in white feathers above was created by the atelier Altalen, one the emerging designers selected by the curators for this edition. In their Milanese laboratory, the designers rework and deform archetypes, driven by the dream of making us unrealistically fantastic personages.
The details of the flounces in the pictures above belongs to two of the six dresses in organza and velvet that make up the first capsule collection by Leike Pansters—debuted after years of training in various couture houses. Their effortless ineffability is ensured by a solid structure that the hands of experienced Italian artisans collaborated to create.
A visual display complete with mug shots and registry files drawing on the assimilation of the figure of a criminal to that of an artist presents the felons via a short bio and a picture of their most representative creative mishaps.
Plush leather turns a backbone into a creation soft enough to be wrapped around one’s neck. The skillfully crafted piece belongs to Naomi Goodish, an Australian hat, perfumes and accessories designer.
Francesco Maria Longo is a new talent selected by the curators of A.I. among the students of the local Accademia di Costume e Moda. The clean and mature look of his creations is a clue to the collaboration with the experienced folks of the Roman house Fendi.
Flowers, insects, architectural elements and decorations straight out of dream-like settings, assembled by hand like artistic collages compose the cast of the frail world of Luigi Borbone pieces. They are often carved from non-precious materials then bathed in gold.
The Ice Cruet above, selected in collaboration with Segno Italiano represents a fine piece from the centuries old glass making tradition of Tuscany. It takes its green shade from the high iron oxide content of the local sand used in the process of its creation.
A.I. Creative Crime was hosted in Rome at Palazzo delle Esposizioni on July 10th, 2015.